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Review: 40 Dean Street, Soho

This charming family-run restaurant has been a Soho stalwart for over twenty years, proving so popular that the owners opened another site last year (64 Old Compton Street) to cope with the overflow.



Pavement seating during summer is the perfect vantage point for people-watching - an activity richly rewarded in Soho, one of the buzziest and most characterful parts of town. Seating inside the restaurant is cosy and comfortable, with quirky decor that makes you feel immediately at home. They are also famously dog-friendly, so you may well find a pooch at a neighbouring table!



The menu covers all the classics, from starters to salads and pizza and pasta to risotto, along with  seasonal specials and desserts from the in-house pastry chef.



There is a surprisingly good cocktail list for a classic trattoria; we tried a Blood Orange Martini (Malfy Rosa gin, Italicus bergamot liqueur & lemon) which was sharp and well-balanced, and a Pomegranate Hiball (Stolichnaya vodka, pomegranate syrup, lime, rosemary & soda), a zingy and refreshing long drink.



For the first course we went for the Burrata with Confit Plum Tomatoes, Rocket & Mustard dressing, plus Bruschetta with San Marzino Tomatoes & Fresh Pesto; both fresh, summery ways to start the meal, and delicious to nibble with our drinks.



Their signature pasta dish is Linguine with Seafood, Cherry Tomatoes, Bisque & Brandy Sauce and comes as a generous, appetising tumble of beautifully-cooked salmon, prawns, squid and scallops with fresh linguine. Their pasta is hand-made in-house every morning and has that pleasing slight bounciness of texture that elevates a pasta dish; highly recommended.



One of my absolute favourite pasta dishes is Spaghetti Vongole; this was an excellent version, the plump clams still tender in a white wine sauce bright and lively with chilli. A standout dish.



Dessert provided an interesting twist on a classic, in their Pistachio Tiramisu. I'm a huge fan of pistachio - it's the gelato flavour of the gods - but I admit to some doubts about combining it with coffee in a tiramisu. In fact, it was delicious and I recommend you give it a try. The obvious quality of the pistachio paste and nuts is key to its success, adding a sophisticated note and welcome crunchy texture.



I find that an affogato is not only a great way to round off a meal - dessert and coffee combined, what more could you ask? - but also a good indication of an Italian restaurant in general as you get to sample the quality of both their ice cream and coffee. Happily both were good - unsurprisingly, as their coffee comes from the iconic Algerian Coffee Stores nearby.



I'll be back to try the Chicken Milanese Spaghetti Pomodoro (assuming I can stop myself re-ordering the seafood pastas) and to take a break from the bustle of Soho in this welcoming little gem of a restaurant. See you there!





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Deputy Editor, Chatting Food London: Amanda David

Amanda David is a freelance food writer specialising in London’s restaurants, bars, exhibitions and events. She is the Events Editor and a contributing writer for London Cheapo, a regular contributor to Palate Magazine and a Member of the Guild of Food Writers.


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