If it's late at night and you are stuck in the culinary hellhole of Leicester Square, standard advice would have said turn and walk the two minutes into Chinatown, where you will find tasty food at normal prices. But for those unfamiliar with the area, looking for sustenance in the wee small hours of the morning, or just really fond of good roast duck, we have found another option. Head to the Hippodrome Casino (stay with me), go through the doors for Magic Mike (seriously), make your way underground past the gambling tables (trust me) and try your luck at the wonderful Chop Chop.
Hidden away on the lower ground floor, the informal subterranean eatery is open from 6pm until 4am and welcomes walk-ins, making it ideal for those looking for anything from a quick after-work supper through to post-theatre/cinema dining or a late-night / early morning Chinese fix. Chop Chop at the Hippodrome is owned by one of the most renowned Chinese restaurant groups, Four Seasons, whose Hong Kong style roast duck was famously named by The Financial Times as ‘the best in the world’.
Four Seasons is generally known for serving some of the best Cantonese food in the country and the same care and attention has gone into the menu at The Hippodrome as its sister restaurants around the world. We started with some of their dim sum menu: prawn dumplings, also known as har gau, and some prawn and chive dumplings. These were some of the most classically made we've had: a delicate, almost transparent dough yet still able to hold its shape and not become sticky, a generous prawn filling with a fresh taste and a perfectly firm, slightly springy texture. Highly recommended.
We couldn't eat at Chop Chop without trying that duck. Made to a secret recipe, the roast duck is thoroughly dried before it is marinated in a special mix of spices and herbs. The firing itself, is done in a specially-built roasting furnace, which distributes the heat evenly around the duck’s body resulting in its golden crispy outer skin.
We were advised by Chop Chop's maître d and Customer Service Manager, William Sin, formerly of the much-loved Y Ming (and now immortalised in Jay Rayner's wonderful book Nights Out At Home). We were hesitant about a quarter of the famous duck being enough for two even as a starter but, as it was expertly shredded at our table, it became clear that there was more than enough to go round. The contrast between the soft, succulent meat and the caramelised shards of crispy skin made each the more enjoyable. I'm adding my vote; this roast duck is one of the best I've had.
For mains we started with stir-fried seafood and lotus root in XO sauce - I am mildly obsessed with XO sauce and particularly with seafood - with some rice and a side of morning glory with garlic for freshness. The lotus root was very well cooked, still with an amount of bite, and the XO was the umami slap I had hoped for.
We also had to try the combination of three signature meats: we chose the Cantonese style roast duck, the Char Siu BBQ pork and the soya chicken, all of which were exceptional. They were also great value; this selection of three meats was more than enough for two as a main and is priced at just £23.80.
On to the sweet section of the menu. There is a selection of lollies in intriguing flavours such as pandan and coconut jelly ice cream or mango boba but we went for an elegant yuzu cheesecake, one of the special desserts from Sakura-do, the renowned Japanese patisserie. Much lighter in texture than a standard cheesecake and with the lovely citrussy tang of yuzu, it was a delicate and refreshing end to the meal.
The drinks list features a concise selection of surprisingly affordable wines (house wine as red, white or rose is £25 for a bottle - hard to beat in this part of town), cider, Tsingtao Chinese beer and teas such as Jasmine, Chinese Oolong and Chrysanthemum.
It's also not short on style. The restaurant has been designed by Rachel O’Toole and references old-style 1960s Hong Kong with formica-topped tables, stools, intimate booths and high counter seating. Featuring two koi fish, the logo for Chop Chop by Four Seasons at The Hippodrome represents the union of the two brands, whilst the name itself has more than one meaning: a fast and efficient dining experience, chopped signature dishes, and chopsticks.
I'll admit, I had reservations about dining in a casino. That's not food snobbery by the way; I have similar feelings about hotel restaurants, which tend to be high end. The problem is, they usually aim to impress fleeting visitors rather than delight regular customers. Chop Chop is the exception that proves this rule; yes, the food is outstanding. but the customer service is even better, largely due to the effortless, genuine charm and attention of William Sin. I am already planning my return visit and have earmarked the next set of dishes I want to try (noodles, and a black pepper lobster dish with asparagus) which is always a good sign.
In short, you should go; Chop Chop is three for three on the hospitality holy trinity of food, service and price. Order the har gau, definitely order the duck - and don't forget to say hi to me at the next table.
[Items in this article may have been gifted to Chatting Food. No financial payment has been made to feature in this article, and entries to the feature are made independently by members of the Editorial Team. This page contains affiliate links and we may receive a small commission for purchases]
Deputy Editor, Chatting Food London: Amanda David
Amanda David is a freelance food writer specialising in London’s restaurants, bars, exhibitions and events. She is the Events Editor and a contributing writer for London Cheapo, a regular contributor to Palate Magazine and a Member of the Guild of Food Writers.
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