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Review: KöD, Soho

This new Danish steakhouse in Soho is spacious, stylish and centrally-located, handy for shopping trips or pre-theatre dining from 5pm and just minutes from Tottenham Court Road station.



KöD has a quietly luxurious feel, with a mixture of minimalist Scandi style, muted leather and earth tones and neon light accents. Service is friendly and there is no sense of being rushed.



If you're looking to level up your lunchtime, they have a £45.00 set lunch menu with a 280g Scottish Hereford & Angus ribeye steak, grass-fed and aged in Himalayan salt, served with steak chips, tomato & basil and your choice of sauce. The à la carte lunch menu also features the KöD bacon cheeseburger and a dish that I need to try, the KöD steak sandwich: warm focaccia with slow-cooked Irish Tri-tip, wagyu onions, wagyu crumble, pickled shallot, rocket and bearnaise sauce, served with truffle fries.



Their cocktail list includes classics such as Espresso Martinis and Palomas, plus house specials such as this refreshing Mai Nordic Tai - Long Pepper Aquavit, Cointreau, Orgeat, Lime, Grapefruit juice and Grenadine. There is also a decent selection of whiskies, G&Ts and beers, plus a compact curated wine list.



We started with the KöD tartare, tender and well-seasoned, made with prime British beef, mustard, horseradish, shallots, capers, chives and tarragon, served with smoked garlic cream and Jerusalem artichoke crisps which are ideal for scooping. We were pleased to find that you can order a larger portion as a main course, which comes with their crispy steak chips with sea salt and fresh thyme; we have long held the opinion that the very best pairing with a tartare in terms of flavour, temperature and texture is a plate of properly-cooked chips.


They also have a creamy burrata starter, served with fresh, pickled and baked rosemary tomatoes, balsamic glaze and fresh basil, topped with smoked salt and chive oil. This provides a burst of freshness and acidity that pairs really well with the beef, so we saved some for the main course.



This is the KöD Experience for two: a generous sharing selection of Grade A4 Japanese Wagyu (150g), Uruguayan fillet steak (200g) and British striploin (280g). The chefs recommend it is cooked medium-rare - please, even if this is not your normal preference, consider giving it a try as both the flavour and texture of the steaks are perfect this way - and serve it sliced for easy sharing. The steaks are excellent, brushed with rosemary and garlic butter on the grill and finished with sea salt and fresh herbs. The wagyu was particularly good; it was literally melt-in-your-mouth tender, with delicious caramelisation from the grill.


Add a sauce or two - Bearnaise, Madagascan peppercorn, chimichurri or their signature port wine glaze - more of their chips, and maybe a salad, corn ribs or truffled mac 'n' cheese to go with. Much as I love steak and chips, next time I may have to try their mashed potato; it comes with smoked bacon and onion compote sautéed in butter and wagyu fat.



Desserts include this classic Vanilla Crème Brûlée with Raspberry Sorbet, which also features as the dessert on their indulgent all-day signature menu: three courses for £60.00, including their steak tartare or langoustine tortellini to start, followed by a 200g Angus & Hereford fillet steak, grain-fed and aged for at least 35 days, served with steak chips, tomato & basil and your choice of sauce.



KöD means 'meat' in Danish, and they definitely deliver. Grab a reservation while you can.





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Deputy Editor, Chatting Food London: Amanda David

Amanda David is a freelance food writer specialising in London’s restaurants, bars, exhibitions and events. She is the Events Editor and a contributing writer for London Cheapo, a regular contributor to Palate Magazine and a Member of the Guild of Food Writers.


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