Review: Sanjugo, Shoreditch

Izakaya-style restaurant Sanjugo has long been a bit of a foodie secret, hidden away down a Shoreditch alley; now they have moved to a new location at 13-15 Great Eastern Street, the secret is well and truly out.

The new site is comfortable and stylish, with counter seating in addition to standard tables; always one of my favourite places to sit to watch the chefs work their magic.

Starters include moreish Truffle Edamame topped with crispy onions, tender Chicken Yakitori skewers with a deeply savoury and sticky glaze, and light and crispy Chicken Dumplings, served with a zingy ponzu dipping sauce.

Sanjugo are known for their fresh and expertly-prepared sushi and sashimi; with chefs of this calibre (ex-Roka and Sushi Samba) we were happy to go for the omakase, and let them choose for us. A gorgeous platter with the added theatre of swirling dry ice arrived; if the first bite really is with the eyes, we were already sold.

We had some classic California rolls with seafood sticks, avocado, cucumber and prawn topped with mayo and tobiko, flying fish roe. The 3 Sashimi Omakase showcased their top-quality produce, which is unusually good value for the price: a soft, buttery salmon, an umami-rich tuna and a delicious, distinctively-textured seared butter fish, aka black cod. My favourite I think was the 6 Nigiri Sushi set: salmon, tuna, sea bream, prawn, eel and ikura caviar, served with soy sauce, wasabi and ginger. It's incredible how much more delicate and layered all the flavours are, and how soft and satisfying the texture, when the fish is this fresh.

However, nigiri doesn't always mean raw fish. This meltingly tender torched A4 grade Wagyu Beef Nigiri is topped with melted truffle butter and punchy kizami soy wasabi; definitely worth adding to your order.

In addition to some very affordable wines they also have a good sake menu, a small selection of Japanese beers and whiskies, and a short but interesting cocktail list. We were tempted by the Prosecco Plum fizz and the Lemon Bomb (lemon shochu, Japanese haku vodka, fresh lemon and mint) but opted for sake, which was served in an iced carafe.

The bao at Sanjugo are also excellent; silky, light, fluffy and with a range of fillings: Spicy Chicken with a generous serving of chicken karaage, salad, spicy mayo and chilli sauce; Vegetable with tofu steak, salad and pickle; Panko Prawn, with salad, mayo and tonkatsu sauce; and Chicken Teriyaki.

Now that Sanjugo is no longer hiding its light under a bushel, I can only imagine it's quickly going to become a favourite spot for a quick lunch escape from the office. The Donburi, rice bowls with a range of toppings, would be a great pick. You can go for a delicious but familiar Chicken or Prawn Katsu Curry, but why not try something a little different? We love the Unagi Don, grilled eel with a sweet-savoury soy and mirin glaze, served with sushi rice and ginger.

If you have room for dessert, try the Green Tea Dorayaki; soft, not too sweet, it's a perfect end to the meal.

Sanjugo has several seating areas and is soon to open an additional area downstairs, but once the word gets out I have a feeling it's going to be in demand; as an affordable but high-quality lunch spot or an ideal place to kick back with a few beers after work, Sanjugo absolutely nails it.

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Deputy Editor, Chatting Food London: Amanda David

Amanda David is a freelance food writer specialising in London’s restaurants, bars and events. She is the author of EAT THIS NOW! on Substack, Events Editor and a contributing writer for London Cheapo, a regular contributor to Palate Magazine and a Member of the Guild of Food Writers.

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