Oxfordshire pub group (The Montgomery Group) has taken over a second site in the rural village of Cuddesdon, South Oxfordshire. Jo Aspin takes a trip to try the trimmings.
On a blustery, rainy end of January day, we bundled into the car and took off to the outskirts of Oxford on a roving Sunday lunch quest.
A country pub with rooms The Bat & Ball has opened in the village of Cuddesdon. It’s the second opening for The Montgomery Group, who took over and revived a 15th-century pub, The Lamb Inn, in Oxfordshire’s Milton in 2022.
Swiftly after entering we were greeted by convivial proprietor Ben Moss, who chatted to the guests with such charm and ease, it seemed he was born a pub landlord, but he later told me he’d given up his London career in advertising only a couple of years ago, to focus on the world of pubs.
The Bat & Ball has a big bar space at the entrance with a small nook for darts which Ben told me was a hit with the locals. Cotswold coloured stone and ceiling beams, give the interior's charm.
The dining room set is set at the back of the pub by the beer garden with a further few tables in between the bar and dining room and opposite the kitchen which is where we were sat.
The kitchen is overseen by Michelin-star-trained Head Chef Rick Owens, previously at Le Manoir aux Quat’Saisons, so our expectations were high.
We started with a generous sized bowl of homemade pork scratchings and Cajan spiced corn ribs together with crispy fried aubergine, with date molasses and spiced yogurt.
I overheard Ben explaining the process of their Sunday beef to the neighbouring table. It's slow cooked overnight before being finished off on the grill. Their gravy is also loving created from roasted beef bone, veal shin, chicken wing, red wine port with a veal jus base.
The Bat & Ball use a third-generation butcher The Calnan Brothers in nearby Watlington for their meats.
I took my eavesdropping as a sign to order the roast aged beef rump which was served with incredibly good roast potatoes, glazed carrots, tenderstem broccoli and a pork stuffing ball. Both the beef and gravy really were top notch. The meat was tender and rich and the roast definitely deserves a spot on Oxfordshire’s best Sunday lunch lists.
The Bat & Ball wine list is curated from small independent growers and at the suggestion of Ben, I tried some absolutely marvellous Sicilian il Rosso di Ludovico.
Completing an afternoon of full indulgence, I ended lunch with a tarte tatin with clotted cream ice cream. A total winner all round.
The pub has five guest rooms for visitors from further afield than we were. We got the full tour of the strikingly designed rooms, each unique in their colour scheme made of heritage Farrow & Ball hues paired with bold patterns of Fairfax upholstery.
Bat & Ball is a triumph and a welcome new addition to the myriad Oxfordshire Sunday roast options where competition is strong.
Moss and his team are striving for excellence and their dedication to their offering shines through.
Bat and Ball pub,28 High Street, Cuddesdon, Oxford, Oxfordshire, 0X44 9HJ
Features Editor, Chatting Food: Jo Aspin
Jo Aspin is a freelance writer specialising in UK restaurants, travel, food and drink. She is also a Director at hospitality PR agency Amy Williams Consultancy, based in London.
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Instagram: @welovechilli
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